Models on the carpet matrix present the Fall 2005 collection without a runway at the ICP building in Manhattan.

Designers constantly navigate a course between what they want to present, what the fashion editors will like and, most importantly, what the consumer will wear, making it difficult to maintain their initial vision of the collection. But Yeohlee Teng, designer of Yeohlee, believes her vision, however intangible or potentially misunderstood, is always the basis of a wearable collection. ARCHITECTURE AS INSPIRATION Teng's collections are, above all, consistent. When asked what inspires her designs, she immediately replies architecture; something most designers would rarely cite as their muse. Her most recent collection, presented during Olympus Fashion Week, was influenced by Degas paintings of dancers as well as Luis Barragan's architecture, which she saw during a recent trip to Mexico City. "I didn't intentionally seek it out," says Teng. "I happened to be walking along and there it was. Something about its form told me it was going to be the basis for my fall 2005 collection." DESIGN THEORY IN CLOTH Translating architecture and design theory into several pieces of wearable clothing could either work out well or not at all. Fortunately, Teng has a talent for interpreting her influences and using clothing as her canvas.

With simple lines and her signature use of muted colors, the collection was similar to her spring 2005 collection, where she used lines and cutouts in order to allow freedom of movement. The difference was in the fullness of the skirts, reminiscent of flowing water, which drape effortlessly over the body in an unconventional form. THE UNEXPECTED The rest test of a successful presentation comes when the buyers place their orders, Lavelle Olexa, senior vice president of fashion merchandising and public relations for Lord & Taylor, said she was pleased with all aspects of the show, from the venue to the collection itself. "Part of Yeohlee's draw is that you don't know what to expect," Olexa explained. "She's a sophisticated, multi-dimensional designer, who doesn't follow the trends, but instead creates a collection based on what works for a woman." Having a diverse group of accomplished woman including Constance White, style director of eBay, and model Irina Pantaeva to present the collection was no accident either. "Yeohlee takes an intelligent approach to fashion," says Olexa. "Her customers reelect that and that is why they have such a strong loyalty to her." HITHA PRABHAKAR hitha.prabhakar@metro.us